In summer, even those who eat lean meat want fish. But buying good fish in Russia is much harder than buying excellent meat. In Solovki, where the world has the best herring, I did not find unfrozen herring for sale even during the catch season. The fish that everyone orders in restaurants, such as brooms, bass, salmon, are often found in unsightly icy crusts or melt water ponds in stores. And the beautiful shine with wet scales on the ice is so expensive that it spoils the appetite. In addition, as Western European suppliers have been rejected and replaced by Chinese, Vietnamese, Turkish and Tunisians, the quality of seafood has declined significantly. Home-cooked fish, on average, is also lower in grade than meat. Not every housewife can properly fry the fish that her husband suddenly brought from fishing. Most often it dries out too much or the taste is killed by excess dough. But it happens not only in our country. I remember being pleasantly surprised by one of Gordon Ramsey’s famous London restaurants making fish chips, thin, tasteless pieces of drum under a layer of sticky dough. Well, it’s interesting to cook fish – a whole science, no less than meat. And there are less sensible cookbooks about fish than about meat. One of the rare qualities is the “All Fish Cookbook” by the famous Australian chef Josh Nyland, which became the book of the year at the last ceremony of the prestigious American gastronomic James Beard Foundation Awards.
Nyland clearly explains all the known fish techniques. how ձ what fish is best stewed, grilled, baked, grilled or fried. The latter is really simple, but if, for example, you want to get a thick marble flesh և golden crumb on the skin of the fillet, then you need proper preparation պահ following a few rules. First, take the fish out of the package, put the refrigerator on a metal rack, leave it for at least an hour. The skin will dry out, and when frying it will be more crunchy. Second, before heat treatment, the fish must be brought to room temperature beforehand, otherwise the frying will not be homogeneous. Third, do not add salt, fry it in the peel most of the time, and it is better in melted butter or oil. However, after cooking for two or three minutes, Nyland advises to squeeze it and replace it with a new one. Ideally, if you still have a special heavy-duty cooking press that will provide the bottom of the pan with tighter skin contact, but the fish can be squeezed with a wide knife (otherwise it will bend). As soon as the crust confidently turns golden (this is shaking from the edges), turn it over and fry for no more than a minute (if the piece is too thick, it is better to bring it to the oven quickly). Now you can sprinkle with large crystals of salt and enjoy the wonderful fried fish.
And here is a slightly more complicated, but still quite affordable recipe, which will be very useful in our Russian home cooking – Kian fish cutlets. It turns out that Nyland has known about chicken since he was a child. But, in the end, fish can be treated like meat, or even used as a “nose to tail” like a pig, a sheep or a cow. So why not make cutlets from thin fish fillets (like red mullet), like whipped and wrapped chicken breast, which explodes with fragrant oil when bitten?
It is simple to cook garlic butter. All you have to do is mix all the ingredients well, put the mass on the layer, roll it in a sausage a centimeter thick, send it to the refrigerator, and then divide it into four parts. Beat the eggs in a separate bowl. Pour the flour in the other, the breadcrumbs in the third. Before frying the fish, carefully cut it along the belly, keeping the back intact. Take out the insides and open it with a “butterfly” like a book. Now you have to get rid of the bones, cut the spine with a sharp knife, and remove the small bones with tweezers. Place the fish on your desk (heads away from you) կենտրոնում Place a slice of frozen garlic butter in the center of each. Then close the “butterfly books” and cut them with your teeth along the abdomen. it will turn out like a whole fish. Holding the head, we roll each one in flour, shake it, then in the egg, and finally in the bread crumbs (the heads are left without grain). Put in the refrigerator for half an hour. Heat the oil for a deep frying pan in a large saucepan to 180 ° C. Fry two fish at once for four minutes, then carefully remove the teeth. I will add a little “joke”. If you are too lazy to worry about cleaning or stabbing fish, buy the frozen back of one of Murmansk’s few Russian products (back drum, finest, juicy parts). excellent quality. I cut my back into 250 gram pieces and make a deep pocket on each side with a sharp knife (do not cut completely). And already in these pockets I put pieces of butter with the same egg, fry bread with the same egg, or if I need a more dietary version, I bake in the oven (200 ° C) for 18-20 minutes. In summer, Ki’s fish cutlets are best served with a green salad seasoned with lemon-garlic vinaigrette sauce, and in winter with fried potatoes.
The Whole Fish Cookbook is subtitled New Ways to Cook, Eat, and Think. First of all, it is aimed at professional cooks to motivate them to create. Josh Nyland himself is passionate about keeping fish dry, low-temperature, and low-humidity. This is for finding new flavors, for example, making fish bacon or pastrami. The underwear, which usually goes in the trash, turns into an unusual snack: guanchal from fish cheeks, jaws, pudding, mortadella from milk. I was most shocked by the fish eye chips. Imagine crushing squid’s fish eyes in a blender, mixing it with tapioca flour, making dough, steaming it, drying it, and then frying it. It is unlikely that I am capable of it now, but it is definitely interesting to read about it, especially on vacation, when you want to dream about new achievements that gastronomy is capable of.
Fish Ki cutlets
1 measles (4 or 4 pieces of ginger, 250 g each)
2 eggs (4 pieces)
3 Flour, panko (small chips), salt
4 Fried oil
For garlic oil.
5 butter (softened) (60 g)
6 finely chopped parsley (1 tablespoon)
7 finely chopped green onions (1 tablespoon)
8 garlic (2 large cloves)