The gastronomic places selected in the new collection of St. Petersburg are located in modern buildings, which stand out in an interesting way from the historical ones.
On Sunday morning, in my beloved Astoria, I opened the window overlooking St. Isaac’s Cathedral and caught myself thinking that almost all my restaurants were in new buildings this spring weekend in St. Petersburg. And we boarded a new boat, not, as usual, with a beaten “pillow”. We are so accustomed to associating St. Petersburg with the decadence of classicism that I decided to make a selection of restaurants located in modern, stylish buildings.
Breakfast at the French
The interior of the Pistachio վայրը François Bistrot’s location on the river, in an ultra-modern apartment complex at 22 Admiral Lazarus, the main menu of which was written in March, simply required a fine French breakfast. Frantsuza is now Dmitry Blinov’s first և’s only restaurant in St. Petersburg, where breakfast is served from 9:00 to 12:30. Chef Ivan Frolukhin, who is called a Frenchman in the team, worked as a cook on the famous “Aurora” cruise ship, he works with beautiful energy, like a well-oiled car. Watching Ivan at work in the morning is a great treasure for the new day.
Right at the entrance, next to luxurious bouquets in vases, on a white marble table, three types of almond cakes are smiling, with shiny, attractive, colorful fillings. The toppings are different every day, if there are apricots, strawberries, pears, take all three without looking. In my next life I want to be Ivan Frolukhin’s strawberry cake և elegantly lying on a white marble table under the arm of delicate coral peonies.
Ivan managed to do the impossible. To restore a dignified reputation in Russia to a real French cricket. Kish is an open pie filled with a mixture of egg, cream or milk, cheese and sour cream. I had breakfast with salmon and bacon. This is not the fuzzy, microwaved egg material that was given Starbucks: and give in 90% of cases. Kish is hotter than Ivan, tender, creamy. My new love in St. Petersburg.
There is an unusual toast with anchovies, pesto sauce, elegant omelet with aristocratic red shrimp, sponge sauce, silk cream, soft-boiled eggs with homemade ham, mushrooms, the finest cornstarch. The only thing that made me ask a silent question was the rye cheese omelet, as if it had been prepared by a student cook. The omelet is small and only a piece of brie cheese on top. Knowing Ivan’s talent, this dish seemed rustic to me, and the rolled omelet, of course, is perfect.
All 70 seats in the breakfast room are occupied, there are families with children, couples, companies – a pleasant noise, like in a real Parisian bistro. The veranda has already been opened, the bright chairs and the light are calling. For now, only enthusiasts swim in blankets to the quaint but still-cold St. Petersburg. But it will not be possible to sit on the balcony.
Recollete:
Gray building with beautiful glass doors at 11 Dobrolyubov Avenue. There are two Duoband restaurants here: Harverst և Recolte. Recolte has undergone conceptual changes since April 14. Chef Alexei Alexei was replaced by Dmitry Blinov standing in the kitchen.
Dmitry Blinov. Photo: press service
Entering the cleavage this time was comparable to the feeling of a child whose parents had just divorced. Alexey Alex last year made a luxurious, absolutely Michelin star collection. But Dmitry Blinov likes the hall to be full and buzzing, փոխ changed the concept to the usual “pancake” food. In the end, both leaders won. Alexey opens his own restaurant in the fall, և Dmitry has realized his long-held dream. Establish processes in all projects – stand by the stove yourself – in a beautiful, stylish restaurant.
Dmitry cooks himself, like in the good old Duo Gastrobar, without considering the concept, without any frame. She cooks what she loves most: delicious anchovies, cheerful yellow tail in soy sauce և with lemon, magic foie gras, pork fat on potato cookies և A5 marbled beef Wagyu. For some reason, I always remember Lady Gaga in her “meat suit” when I look at Vagyu’s marble.
Of course, this is not only a different Recolte, but also another Blinov. The sauces have become more delicate, the presentation is more delicate. And finally in Russia appeared the ideal Wellington beef, for which you want to go to Recolte again and again.
The restaurant has taken a noisy life, the audience has changed. Now there are companies with blue-haired teenagers, men in suits անտ elegant elegant women. all are comfortable և delicious and the compliance is 100%.
I personally met the wonderful sommelier Christina Veselova (now Gladilina), who controls all the restaurants in Duoband. The red wine of the 2017 Satellite Côtes de Bordeaux that he offered was “wine in the sense”. I called it that when the brain fixed the intellectual movement, the effect is like reading a book. I understand why Christina is the best sommelier in Russia according to “Where to Eat” (2022), the best female sommelier of the All-Russian Women’s Sommelier’s Competition (2021) and the owner of one of the most prestigious professional qualifications, ASI (International). Sommelier Association) gold diploma, there are only 12 such diplomas in Russia.
Confectioner Stas Paul has expanded the dessert menu, now there are seven positions, some of which have been moved from the same collection. Feijoa cream, pumpkin cake, raspberry basil and truffle desserts are at the top of my personal hit parade! Stas also started smiling more, a native of the first duo, I think he is very happy that Dmitry is back in the “car”.
After the interview with Blinov, I started to look at the whole Duoband team in a different way. A well-coordinated mechanism, which works like clockwork, instantly rejects the lazy and the poisonous, as well as those with whom there is no chemistry for various reasons. But everyone on the team knows their area of responsibility, maintains discipline, and the manager and program partner do not hesitate to take empty plates from the guest to the kitchen. They open champagne with the same pleasure and bring delicious espresso.
Recolte is a new delicate gauge, humane, delicious. Aesthetic interior is available here, Zalto cup և broccoli և parmesan soup for 450 rubles. For me, this is not only Recolte 2.0, but also Blinov 2.0.
Sea, Signora
Sea, Signora is a fish restaurant by chef Antonio Freza, located at the new Senator Business Center at 30 Bolshaya Morskaya. The house was rebuilt from scratch with a detailed restoration of the historic façade. In the center of the huge hall there is an aquarium with decorative fish. The beautiful menu focuses on the aesthetic blend of the freshest fish, seafood, pasta, Italian and Israeli cuisine.
I have known Antonio for many years, so it was nice to get to an almost family dinner he organized in a separate room, which is called Casa (Italian for “home”). Crudo, whole cold, bright red shrimp with cherries, seafood pasta on a huge plate, strawberry tiramisu իհարկե, of course, the famous prosekko with a bottle of magnum. Antonio also organized a whole fire show. Two huge fish, barramundin, sea bass, are baked in salt and effectively set on fire in front of guests.
This year Sea, Signora opened for the first time a large balcony in the yard of the business center. This is not just the “common well” we are used to in St. Petersburg, but a cozy, quiet courtyard that looks like a real Italian balcony with climbing green, wicker sofas. From possible rainy days the yard was covered with a transparent dome, and the bar was hidden under an arch. It will be great to come to the veranda for elegant breakfasts and cocktails. The entrance, like the walls of the terrace, was decorated with flower panels and portals by florists. It turned out to be a bright summer in St. Petersburg.
Ante seafood և bar
What is St. Petersburg without bars? This time it was my beloved Larisochnaya, now still in Petrogradka, the famous El Capitas with their secret room, on the ceiling with a fresco of Madonna, tasting rare miscals, the bright Mexican Paloma Cantina, my St. Friends of St. Petersburg ադառնալ return to the hotel at four in the morning և bypass the bridges. But since I have a selection of new buildings, I will mention Ante seafood & bar, especially since this bar is located in the business district of New York City Hall. Consider where to go after practical negotiations with partners. This bar is very different from the drunken entertainment bars we present in St. Petersburg.
Ante is a respectable bar. The visual concept refers to Martin Scorsese’s film “Casino”. dark red color, mirrors, large lacquered wooden slab in the center of the hall, impressive chandelier decorated with red muslin. Pleasantly soft light, like a movie light, illuminates the tables but not the guests, allowing guests to stay incognito. The floor has an ironic coral pattern. In general, an ante is a “blind bet” made by poker players before handing out playing cards.
Dmitry Blinov is responsible for the kitchen’s aesthetically cool dishes. The atmosphere և visual concept is in the hands of Mikhail Sokolov իմ Timur Dmitry,, who has developed more than 25 restaurant concepts, including Atelier Tapas & Bar և Salone Pasta & Bar. The menu includes dishes with an emphasis on fish, seafood with tartar cucumber, vonton with shrimp, anchovies with baked paprika. But there is also “necessary” food: veal cheek with wild garlic, duck breast with pork mushrooms. To make yourself feel as luxurious as in a casino, order a plate of shrimp (190 rubles each) և oyster oyster sauce (520 rubles each). The list of bars մեկ This is a tip to Casino. Martini’s Turns և Vodka-filled cocktails inspired by Scorsese movie characters.
There are now an incredible number of tourists in St. Petersburg, including adults. In crowded restaurants. Petersburg in a pleasant pulse. but the rhythms of St. Petersburg-Petrograd-Leningrad remain unchanged. The taxi driver greets you with the phrase “Let’s tell the news of the city, we have opened a book fair in Palace Square, all the publishing houses are there”. – և thenև gives a monologue about the cost of breeding the bridge լավագույն the best recipe for the smell. Dovlatov style dialogues, incredible beauty of the building, wonderful ballet և delicious dishes, for the sake of which we make gastronomic trips.
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